Day 32 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei
Shot of the day - Cathie's image of early-morning shadows through the trees.
If any day can be called routine, today was it. Like well-oiled machines, we woke up, packed, ate breakfast and went on our way about 7.30am, walking steadily for two hours or so at a good speed and covering close to 10km in that time. After that our average pace slowed, as we took a couple of breaks, the first ostensibly for coffee, but really for the toilet, and the second for coffee, food and toilet combined.
This man was advertising cheese, apparently a major food group in this region.
We're still getting the hang of Spanish food, which seems to consist mainly of carbohydrate in the form of bread or chips, and meat. Cake is included at breakfast, but very little serious fibre or greenery - hence the frequent mention of toilet stops. It's an effort to get some action - coffee helps. Last night we had some very fortifying vegetable soup, which may have helped - we were joined by a couple from Edinburgh, but we neglected to get their names - we're waiting for a comment.
Low water levels below Portomarin.
Breakfast at Portomarin was the usual - coffee, orange juice and toast (strangely, no meat or cheese, just little packages of jam). For reasons I won't go into, we have our own jar of very expensive New Zealand honey, which we're anxious to use up, so we slathered it on liberally. The thing about Portomarin is that it's built on the shores of a flooded valley in which lie the ruins of an ancient Roman village. At the moment, water levels are very low, so we could see the ruins and the old Roman bridge. To save me explaining it all, here's a link with brief details, click here. In the photo, the furthest bridge is the one across which we entered the town (with the ruins far below). The central bridge is the one across which we left town this morning and the one closest is blocked off.
A peaceful start to the day.
Once we'd crossed our bridge there were two choices of route. The guide book that everyone uses recommended turning right, but the stone markers showed the left option as the preferred route - and that's the way everyone was going. We were delighted that we took the right. Not only was it a lovely path through trees, but we were on our own.
Fellow pilgrims, bless them all (most of them).
I have to make a comment about my travelling partner, which may interest her siblings. Cathie is the most calm and serene of women, nothing seems to ruffle her. I've been known to have fits of intolerance and even hissy fits (my siblings will be surprised about that), but my darling wife sails through it all. When I'm tempted to smite fellow pilgrims with my walking pole, she wishes them a cheery "Buen Camino".
You may detect the odd raincoat ahead of us.
When we left this morning, the weather forecast was resolutely upbeat. It was cold to start, but warming up, definitely no rain. We almost didn't pack our raincoats. Thank goodness we did. It got extremely cold. Later it rained - gently at first and then with increasing ferocity. It stopped awhile, but came on strong again as we descended into Palas de Rei.
The beautiful green crescents embracing Cathie's knees.
I thought to take a classic shot of my beloved's knees as we dropped down into the town. We have to thank our good friend and supreme physiotherapist Candace for instruction in the technique of applying the tape. Our downhills are slow, but we survive them.
So here we are with only three days to go. Tomorrow is a long one of almost 30km, but after that there's just two short ones, each less than 20km. We have the option of a 6am breakfast and we're going to take it.
For today's music, something from Albert, who we met a couple of days ago - very appropriate for today's conditions: https://youtu.be/cC9OhK2Ovw0
Today's Relive video: https://www.relive.cc/view/
Today's photos (the wifi is reluctant to add them all, but I'm hoping they'll drop in over the next few hours): https://photos.app.goo.gl/HnPXr9pjL7D2Jv4F9
As always, please leave comments - let us know who you are. You can email us at nelsonseaswims@gmail.com
Peter which guide book do you have
ReplyDeleteThe Brierley book and the wisely app
ReplyDeleteLois… interesting photos in all the blogs. Not long now until you reach the end goal… great trip.
ReplyDeleteMaggy again. Love the green taping....Candace is THE most amazing physio!!! The rain was inevitable, and your choice taking the right path was very right!!! As for you Comme to a our your gorgeous wife....we knew that!! And you, throwing himself fits??? No!! The odd toy throwing....hmm. you are the perfect couple
ReplyDeleteGood luck for the long day....the very last endurance test.
Go well. The end is nigh!!!
I was just Reading to your last 4 days. The roads and views are beautiful. It’s allmost 3 weeks ago as we came home after our last day Camino. And at this moment of writing we are driving to south France for a few weeks camping 🏕. Still we are thinking about the beautiful days we had, walking the first part of the French Camino. I very much Enjoy your blog and reading about those little but very important human strugles like toilet 🚻 and coffee ☕️ 😄. Hope you have a good 30 km which you both are walking at this moment. It’s allmost weired that your/this camino will end in a few days. Nice to have this beautiful blog as a nice remembrance. Wish you both all the best for the last days and I keep on following you 👋🏼
ReplyDelete